Me being a Torontonian, meaning, I am from thee most multicultural city in the world, has given me the pleasure to have been exposed to diverse cultures, neighbourhoods, people and cuisine. When exploring new places, I am always on the hunt to find immersive culinary experiences that engage all my senses, break the mold and provide me with an extraordinary experience not only worth writing about but travelling to.
Stepping off the 2 train and into Harlem is like entering another world. Even though the years have brought new developments in the space it feels like a place with a strong historical past. The faces of people from all different generations look like they have a unique story to tell. You hear the sounds of cars, from loud beeps to beats and are surrounded by shop after shop named after the famous borough that all line the streets. Strutting and laughing, smiling and singing, Harlem has a certain ‘swagger’ that makes this ‘motown’ part of Manhattan, very unique.
In the heart of Harlem lies Red Rooster, Celebrity Chef Marcus Samuelsson’s newest restaurant, a soul-full place that lights up the street with an old school groove and culinary chic.
The Vibe:
The genius of Top Chef Masters Winner, Marcus Samuelsson and his team, created a vibe in Red Rooster that echo’s the days of the Harlem Renaissance. Recently opened, the style, the modernity, the culture of the place paying homage to its roots and the home-like feel, allowed me to get a taste of why Marcus Samuelsson’s completely booked spot, was absolutely filled. This is a place for all; first dates, family gatherings, hanging with the boys and catching up with the girls.
The winning dish from Top Chef Masters won the hearts of the judges because Marcus Samuelsson cooked from his heart and told his own personal story. With a Bohemian vibe, the literature, music, food and art in Red Rooster tells its own story; A story of a city that in its height was booming with celebrating African-American cultural expressions, its people and the era within it.
A visual throw-back to the old school, an oak pantry-like shelf lines the wall with found objects such as wooden frames, iron skillets, books, vinyl records (“A-men” to that!), and oil candle holders that you could perhaps come across in a 1940′s home and kitchen. A cultural experience that is both traditional and contemporary, the art also reflected the vibrant colours, textures and people of the times.
A completely modern open-concept space, the floors were filled with dark solid wood tables that provided a communal feel, the kitchen was a part of the scene and the walls were lined with tan banquette’s style booths, meant to sit back, relax and just chill. The sounds of live gospel singers with their jazzy songs, was a heart warming experience that added the right touch to the ambiance of my Sunday morning brunch.
A gorgeous contemporary element, was the large black board that framed the entire kitchen and the back of the restaurant that had chalk-board like drawings of deconstructed meats, recipes and lists of ingredients that provided a creative and modern locavore-esk touch.
The Food:
Southern-mod is a way I would describe the fan fare at Red Rooster. Executive Chef Andrea Bergquist, uses traditional ingredients such as cornbread and grits from the old world of the South and applies it to nose-to-tail or beak-to-tail, locavore style philosophies. It is simple in concept but not in execution as it takes comfort food, reinvents it with modern ingredients and presents it in an unusual but avant-garde way.
Right from the beginning, the thing I noticed about all the food in Red Rooster, was the amazingly strong aroma. The aroma just mesmerized me as it lifted off the plate and danced around my sense of smell. An attribute to high quality, fresh herbs and seasonings, it was so strong and luscious. It not only invited me out it to eat, it seduced me to come in.
To start off the meal was cornbread! The perfect start to a Southern meal, made from buttermilk, it was firm and not too dry. It had the right texture and was modernly paired with an amazing mixture of butter covered with fresh and sticky honey. The butter had the had the sweetest aroma ever coming from the fresh honey. That’s right I said honey and a tart slow roasted tomato jam!
Served in a black iron skillet placed on a wooden board, the Wood Oven Baked Egg, with seasoned bread baked inside the egg, was the first time I had seen the usually comforting egg-o-toast presented in this unique way. I could taste the aroma coming from the bread. Baked with fresh herbs, garlic and sprinkled with pecorino, the bread was actually so flavourfully superior, it provided balance to the simple eggs.
If you are a side dish at Red Rooster you are living out your side-dish dreams. A far cry from regular sides, they were given such care and the Southern-mod nod, even the bacon was dripping in pure maple syrup.
The ’Mac and Greens,’ a combination of pasta and southern greens was a unique collaboration of ingredients, not overdone with butter or cream, but brought together so you could taste all the ingredients – the smooth greens blended nicely through the curves of the pasta and the texture of cheese.
The ‘Wurst and Onions,’ had a very rich flavour. The onions were perfectly sautéed till smooth and sweet and the sausage was smokey, had a hint of spice and texturally stood strong against the onion, its silky companion that had its arms wrapped around it.
Peeking at me, with flecks of bright colour from the green mint and thinly sliced purple cabbage, I couldn’t help but try the basket of golden fries because my sense of smell led me to the aromatic truffle oil that dressed them. A heavenly treat, it was hard not to walk away from them. With their crisp texture, hints of saltines from the coarse salt and parmesan cheese, the savoury essence of the truffle oil and the freshness of the purple and green.
These side dishes were so aromatic, sultry, fresh and rich, instead of being thought of as a supporting role they could have played the main part in the show. And really, why shouldn’t side dishes be equally as good if not better than the main? They are all parts of the entire culinary experience making it one whole.
The Service:
It was definitely busy and there was a lot going on, but that didn’t stop the wait staff to greet you with a smile and ensure you feel at home. Very knowledgable about the cuisine, they were open, kind and friendly and brought you everything your heart would need.
So…
The experience at Red Rooster was a sensorially rich experience, in that no detail was spared.
From seeing the art, the design of the space and the plating presentation and style; hearing the live music, the chatter in the kitchen and hustle inside; smelling the delectable aromas, experiencing the textures of the food and of course tasting their Southern-mod - left me feeling satiated.
Red Rooster gave me a feeling of warmth that paid tribute to memories of old Harlem and new but above all, was definitely worth the trek to. A hipster spot by the definitions of today, I could imagine it being an ‘it’ spot to go to even back in the day.
Red Rooster Harlem: 310 Lenox Avenue between 125th and 126th. New York. (212) 792.9001. http://redroosterharlem.com/
